Run the wire brush up and down in the direction of the desired wood grain. Do all four faces of the post. Do the ends of the post as well.
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| Distresses (top) vs new (bottom) |
The post will also benefit from having a few chips taken out of the corners to simulate wear. Use a scalpel to chip away the corners.
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| Chipped (bottom) vs no chips (top) |
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| Painting on wood stain by brush can lead to some desired variation in colour. |
The beams are to have big cast iron bolts securing them to the wall. Those can be formed perfectly at miniature scale by using fishing split leads. Cut each lead in half through the split line using a scalpel.
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| Fishing leads are cheap and widely available |
Test fit the position of the bolt heads and put a small pencil mark where the bolts will go.
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| Putting the cut fishing leads on the wood implies bulk and the need for bolts. |
Once the wood stain is dry dry brush a selection of greys over the post, starting with darker grey and working up to the lightest grey. Once the dry brushing is dry, finish off with a few washes of Browns, flesh tones, yellow etc. This will give a little variation to the post colour.
Glue the posts to the outside of the gate wall.
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| Why are these beams outside the gate....who knows ? |
In order to allow the gates to be open or closed and to avoid having to use any complex hinge system, the doors were mounted onto a thin piece of clear plastic. This will allow the doors to stand unaided in any position required.
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| Clear plastic stands are almost invisible when the model is viewed. |
The plastic is a hardly noticeable once the doors are standing. Great for replacing a good door with a door ruin if the game explodes in the doors.
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| The doors can be exchanged for other opening fillers as required. |
That's it for now. Check back again for the next post.









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